MUSTAGH ATA, EAST RIDGE

This climb gives the opportunity to attempt a major new route on a 7,546 meter peak at the lowest possible budget.  All group equipment and supplies are provided. This route is steep and subject to storms, such that a fairly quick ascent must be made.  Therefore, proper acclimatization will be accomplished elsewhere, ideally on the normal route on the front side of Mustagh Ata.

After summitting Mustagh Ata via the normal route, according to the schedule noted under the Mustagh Ata, one of the easier 7500 meter peaks in the world button, the team members who plan on climbing the new route will descend via specially organized camel transport, to Subashi, then join prearranged jeep transport to Kongtoyagz village, a short drive from the Karakoram Highway.  If any team members have chosen to acclimatize elsewhere, i.e. Pakistan, they will travel alone, without group arrangements, and clear border formalities the day before at Taxkergan, and be delivered by jeep to Kongtoyagz village, where both elements of the team will be united.

The trek to the base of the new route starts at Kongtoyagz village, and then will proceed by jeep and or camel to Ayaktaxningojadi village, which is reached on unimproved roads winding through the barren foothills of Mustagh Ata.  After the village is passed, the trek proceeds by camel to a "highpoint" along the Torbulung river, where the Kuksay Glacier joins the river, and hopefully above that point.  Local porters, who have accompanied us to that point, will pick up the loads from there and carry them on their backs into the basecamp.   3-4 porter loads equal the load of one camel.  The porters will walk on the rubbley surface of the glacier, up and down the moraines.  The climbing team members will encourage, help, and take care of the porters along the way, in this difficult terrain.  After 8 – 12 kilometers of loose rocks balanced on top of slippery ice, basecamp is reached at an elevation of 4,724 meters, on a flat, rock strewn glacier.   This is a spectacular basecamp, in a cirque, surrounded by the towering walls of Mustagh Ata, Kuksay, Tokoruk, and Kala Peaks.  There are a lot unclimbed objectives here, and it is rare to be offered a chance to climb in such a place with a fully supported expedition and a strong team.

The climb to Camp 1 at 5,245 meters entails rock climbing on a broad and scrambled arrete tilted at 40-70 degrees, with occasional vertical pitches.   The difficult rock climbing appears to stop below Camp 1.  We will route find until the camp is located, then explore the approaches to Camp 2, which we anticipate will be located at 5,700 meters on a gentle snow plateau.  We intend to place Camp 3 at 6,400 meters in a depression on a broad snow ridge.  The climbing between Camp 2 and 3 looks to be easy snow plodding (snowshoes are required for this climb).  We believe that between Camp 3 and Camp 4 (at 7,100 meters), there lies another rock band, of perhaps 50 degree mixed snow, ice, and rock, which could be a thrill, at such an altitude.  The final push to the 7,546 meter summit was seen as steep snow through our telephoto lenses, and it could be unconsolidated, avalanche prone snow, but we hope to find it stable.   We will be using extreme caution, wise judgement and care throughout the climb, with a major emphasis on safety.  If we encounter hazardous objective conditions such as avalanche or serac-fall, we will "hole-up" until conditions improve, or turn back.

After reaching the summit, the successful team members will snowshoe down to the base of the mountain via the extremely easy, and well marked normal route, thus making the first ascent of the East Ridge, and the first traverse of the peak itself.  If all goes well, it seems it might not be a bad day out on the hill….

After this climb, you are welcome to join us for further treks and climbs in Tibet, as well.  Please click on the following additional options:

We are able to provide a five percent discount for: