Climb Lhotse, the Fourth Highest Peak in the World, with SummitClimb

Often spelled: "Lotse, Lohtse, Lo-Tse, Lho-Tse, Lo Tse, Lho Tse, Loh-Tse, or Loh Tse".

We welcome you to visit our new Lhotse website. There is more thorough information about the trip, slideshows, photo galleries, video clips and much more. Thank you.

The world's fourth highest mountain, climbed from the same route as Everest.

Lhotse at 8511 metres, is the fourth highest mountain in the world, seen in a telephoto lens from the summit of Pumori, reputed to be Nepal's "easiest" 7000 metre peak. The route follows across the bottom of the western Cwm, in the foreground, then heads up the Lhotse face, to the left of centre, reaching the summit in the upper part of the photo to the left of centre. This is the same route one climbs to get to the summit of Everest, however the Everest route traverses to the left, over Lhotse's left shoulder, above the rock rib through the upper left of the photo, known as the Geneva Spur. (Photo: Erich Bonfert).

Full Service Cost: $9450, Ł4750, €5950; Basic Climb Cost: $3450, Ł1750, €2150.

When you see the high level of service we provide, as well as low budget options, you may agree that the cost is affordable, inexpensive, even cheap.

Leadership: During this full-service expedition, you will benefit from the leadership provided by Arnold Coster, who has led Lhotse previously as a climber-leader-organizer of 4 Everest expeditions. He is a relaxed, friendly and well organized person, and a highly-skilled professional with 25 years experience in getting people to the summit and back down with the highest attention to safety. For more about Dan, please "click" on the Leadership link above.

Arnold Coster from Rotterdam, our leader in advanced basecamp at 5600 metres (Roland Debare). Dan in Lhotse high camp at 8000 metres at 5:30 am on summit day. That's the summit of Everest over his right shoulder (JC Pratt).

Trekking: For our full-service members, the cost of this expedition includes one of the most beautiful treks in the world. For more information and photos, please visit our Lhotse trek site: Lhotse Trek.

Sherpas and Equipment Transport: Our expedition includes transport of all of your equipment from Kathmandu to basecamp, and returned to Kathmandu. While climbing on the mountain, we DO NOT ask our full-service members to carry heavy group equipment (although it is an option if you really want to), such as tents, rope, fuel, food, etcetera. We employ climbing sherpas, and high-altitude porters, to carry group equipment and supplies. For a minimal expense, we can also provide personal sherpas, and climbing-guides, to individual members who wish to have their own private sherpa or personal climbing-guide.

Training: Upon arrival in basecamp, ALL full-service and basic-climb members are required to participate in one to two days of training in the areas of climbing techniques, glacier travel, rope fixing, ascending, descending, safety techniques, rappels (abseils), belaying, medical equipment and procedures, communications equipment, camping techniques and high-altitude cooking. For the expert and beginner alike, it is important to review these techniques in order to enhance skills, ensure safety-awareness, and work together as a team.

Safety: BOTH full-service and basic expeditions are allowed access to our extensive medical supplies, first-aid kits, medical oxygen, and a gamow bag in case of emergency. Thank you for being a well-prepared and safe team member!

Communications: During our expedition, we regularly update several websites, such as EverestNews.com with the progress of our expedition and our team members. In this way, your loved ones and friends, colleagues, and sponsors can stay tuned to how you are progressing on your way up to and back down from the summit. Our expedition is equipped with one "walkie-talkie" radio for each member, and a satellite telephone for international voice telephone calls. Members wishing to use the telephone will contribute $4 per minute of use.

Group Equipment: We provide a plethora of well-used, top-quality, and time-tested equipment, group gear, and supplies, including: rope, ice, rock, and snow anchor protection; basecamp, advanced basecamp and altitude tents; cookers, fuel, high-altitude food, walkie-talkie radios, bamboo marker wands, etcetera. We now provide an individual tent for each member in basecamp, so you do not have to share. Please see the above EQUIPMENT link, to study what we bring for your use and safety.

Cooks and Food: On the trek our skilled trekking cooks provide delicious meals. In basecamp our skillful and hard working cooks prepare three hot meals each day with a very healthy diet of fresh vegetables, cheeses, eggs, and fresh as well as tinned fruits, meats and fish (all meats and fish are prepared separately out of respect for the vegetarians in our midst). They supply you with unlimited hot-drinks, the key to successful acclimatization. We have large weather-proof kitchens and dining tents, with comfortable chairs and tables. On the mountain, above basecamp, we provide you with abundant and nutritious locally available quick-cooking food, so that you may prepare at least three meals and lots of hot drinks each day, in our specially designed high-altitude stoves using our butane-propane expedition mix fuel.

Personal Equipment: Plastic double climbing boots are required, as are good quality leather walking boots. For this climb, if you dont hve them already, you should strongly consider "One-sport Everest" boots, or similar composite boots with a built-in gaiter, made by Millet, Crispi, La Sportiva, etcetera, and are available in Kathmandu. You will need to bring your own personal equipment, including rucksack, ice-axe, crampons, harness, helmet, plastic mountaineering boots, good quality leather boots, down/duvet jacket and trousers (a down suit may be advantageous and is available in Kathmandu), wind/waterproof clothing, sleeping bag/mat, etcetera. You will need to bring your own daily snacks ( a wide selection of snacks are readily available in Kathmandu). In addition, we ask you to bring 6 of your favorite high-altitude freeze-dried dinners for yourself. Please see the above EQUIPMENT link, to study what is needed.

Ryan Waters on the summit, wearing one of our oxygen sets. Team member and Sherpa oxygen supplies cached in the storage tent in ABC. All of our oxygen is hand checked and the bottles, masks, hoses, and regulators are carefully matched. We guarantee 100 percent of our oxygen to work perfectly. Any oxygen bottles and equipment unused will be repurchased for 70 percent of what you payed. On the far right of the photo, you can see our hot water hand washing water reservoir and soap, where everyone washes their hands before each meal, in order to maintain good hygiene (Ryan Waters).

Oxygen: WE ONLY USE OFFICIALLY LICENSED OXYGEN, AND FULLY GUARANTEE EACH BOTTLE, MASK, AND REGULATOR. Although some climbers wish to try it without, most members will prefer to have oxygen available. Regarding oxygen, the cost is up to you. Some people want 1 bottle, others want 12. We suggest you bring five and we 100% guarantee and certify our bottles and oxygen systems, and test them thoroughly with the mask/hose/regulator set-up. We have our own oxygen analysis instrumentation, and we are able to certify that the contents are 100% oxygen. Additionally, we are able to certify the volume of contents in the bottle. We feel that our bottles/masks/hoses/regulators are 100 percent guaranteed and reliable. We have a buy back policy. We will buy back any unused bottles, and the mask/hose/regulator (in good condition) for 60 percent of what you paid! Please check our "Questions" site for the cost, and scroll down the list of question topics until you see "Oxygen".

Team Member Experience: Our leader and our team-climbing-sherpas, are there to ensure (for our full-service members) you make it up to the summit and down safely. However, this is not a guided expedition (although you could hire your own personal guide, sherpas, etcetera), and team members are expected to be able to care for themselves in a winter-camping and climbing environment. Obviously, when climbing the fourth highest mountain in the world, there are hazards present, and members must have experience in roped rock and ice climbing techniques (to protect from falling down the mountain or into crevasses), and have winter-condition climbing experience in the greater ranges of the world. It is also required that all members will have an awareness of altitude sickness, frostbite, and the recognition of their symptoms, prevention, and treatment. Once traveling above basecamp, all members must be prepared to be roped to another team member at all times. Neither solo climbing, nor descending, are allowed above basecamp. Additionally, and perhaps most importantly, members need to join with a spirit of friendship, teamwork and cooperation, and be ready to work with the group and be a good "team-player".

Descending the fixed lines from the summit. Most accidents occur on descent. Its a time for the utmost concentration and good hydration and nutrition. This is when you find out how fit you really are (Ryan Waters).

Fitness and Health: To participate in this expedition you must be a very fit and active winter-walker-climber in good health. Prior to joining our group, please see your doctor and obtain the necessary permission and advice, as well as medications for travel in extremes of altitude, and also for exotic locales. Note: You can purchase all necessary medicines inexpensively with no doctor's prescription in Kathmandu. Make sure you have physically trained yourself very thoroughly before joining this climb of the fourth highest mountain in the world. We look forward to climbing together with you!

Introduction: Climb Lhotse (8,511 Metres)

Lhotse is the fourth highest mountain in the world and is unique in that it is climbed from virtually the same route as Mount Everest. The dates we have chosen feature the best weather of the year. Our proposed schedule allows for two potential summit attempts.

This expedition to Lhotse maximizes many years of accumulated wisdom from not just reaching the summit previously with four members, but an intimate knowledge of the high Himalaya, a strong record of reaching Lhotse, Everest, K2, Kangchenjunga, and many other 8,000 metre summits, along with an intimate knowledge of the Nepalese officials who regulate the permit system. We must also give credit to the highly experienced and hard-working climbing Sherpas, cooking and office staff.

Detailed Description

The trip begins in the ancient and colorful city of Kathmandu, and the staff will personally meet your flight at Tribhuvan airport. You stay in a comfortable, simple, clean hotel, and sample some of the tasty Nepalese, Tibetan and Western-Style cuisine, at minimal expense. During our free day in Kathmandu, we shall finalize arrangements, and take some time out for trinket hunting, with planned visits to explore the 17^th century splendors of the Monkey Temple, the Durbar Square and old Kings Palace, as well as the ancient city of Patan.

Early the following morning we fly to Lukla at 2860 metres., where we meet our yak drivers, and porters. If there is time, we will trek to Monjo (2652m), and spend the night. For our full-service members, the cost of this expedition includes one of the most beautiful treks in the world. For more information and photos, please visit our Lhotse trek site: Lhotse Trek.

Trekking in the Khumbu valley. Crossing a bridge under rhododendron forests. (DL Mazur) Our team in basecamp (DL Mazur). Anatoly Bukreev and Vladimir Balyberdin at basecamp. (DL Mazur).

We will continue our trek up to Namche Bazaar (3446m), the capital of the Sherpa Kingdom. Here we rest for a day to acclimate, then proceed up to Deboche (3757m) for a night, then to Lobuche (4930m), where we have another acclimatization day. Finally, we make the last trek to basecamp at 5300 metres. After resting, organising, and training in basecamp for a day, we will begin our climb. We start with a day hike through the awe inspiring Khumbu Icefall, followed by a trip to the plateau of the Western Cwm, for our first glimpse of Camp 1, at 5800 metres. We return to basecamp for a tasty dinner, prepared by our skilled cooks.

Diane in the icefall (Dan Mazur). Tent lashed to its platform in camp 3 at 7200 metres (Dan Mazur)Climber in the Lhotse Face (Scott Darsney). Chris Shaw on the face at 8100 metres during an early summit attempt (Dan Mazur)

Lhotse Peak and the couloir on the upper right of the obvious face whiches drops down the right-hand side of the photo, seen from 8400 metres on Everest. Close-up of the couloir on the right face, Lhotse Middle on left side of photo (Dan Mazur).

Through the following weeks, we will climb up and down the mountain, exploring the route, establishing camps, and carefully and safely building our acclimatization level. From camp 1 at 6000 metres, the route traverses the flattish bottom of the Western Cwm, to 6200 metres where camp 2 is located. Camp three is on the head wall of the Lhotse face at about 7200 metres. Camp 4, located upon rock shelves in the upper Lhotse face, is the highest camp, and at 8000 metres it is a windy and cold place. We take our time, climbing up and down to acclimate, which gives us the best chance to ascend in safety and maximize our opportunity to reach the summit during the "weather windows" which generally open in May. The route to the summit winds through snow ice and rock fields, at a 10 to 50 degree angle. The final summit "gully" is a coulouir which is often filled with snow, and sometimes rock. The gully ends and the final 50-100 metres mounts a "summit block" of steps and snow, which is not too technical. A very climbable route on the world's fourth highest mountain. Welcome to our team!

The entire route on Lhotse, showing basecamp at the lower left, the Khumbu Icefall in the centre, Everest on the upper left, Lhotse in the middle, and a bit of Nuptse on the upper right. (Photo: Erich Bonfert)

Camp 4 at 8000 metres seen from the top of the Lhotse Face. Looking up into the Lhotse couloir from 8000 metres on a sunny-windy summit climb. Climbing fixed lines in the Lhotse Couloir at 8200 metres. Looking down the Lhotse Couloir from 8400 metres, fixed lines on the right. This photo shows well the amount of snow in the couloir that year. Note the footprints on the right side of the couloir. Looking over at Lhotse Middle from the summit in a whiteout. (DL Mazur) .

The view from the summit, looking south to the other tops of Lhotse, looking as if the might be as high as the summit we are standing on (Scott Darsney). Looking west to Cho Oyu, Shishapangma, Pumori, and many others (DL Mazur) .

1.	Team Coordinator; Arnold Coster, leader of 4 Everest expeditions;
2.	Climbing Sherpas for the group;
3.	Transport to basecamp to/from Kathmandu, for you and equipment, including domestic flights between Kathmandu and Lukla and return to Kathmandu;
4.	Your trek to/from basecamp is included in the price;
5.	Yak transport of all equipment from Lukla to and from basecamp;
6.	Three meals per day on trek and in basecamp. Comfortable tables and chairs and dining tent;
7.	Skillful basecamp cooks;
8.	All mountain, trek, and basecamp food;
9.	All permit fees and liaison officers;
10.	Use of group gear and supplies: rope, ice, rock, and snow anchor protection; basecamp and altitude tents; cookers, fuel, high-altitude food, walkie-talkie radios, satellite telephone, etcetera;
11.	Emergency equipment and supplies: medical oxygen, gamow bag, basecamp medical kit, high-altitude medical kits, etcetera;
12.	In addition to our top-quality high-altitude tents, we now provide an individual tent (1 tent per person) in basecamp.

1.	Coordinator: Arnold Coster, leader of 4 Everest expeditions;
2.	All permit fees and liaison officers;
3.	Emergency equipment and supplies: medical oxygen, gamow bag, basecamp medical kit, high-altitude medical kits, etcetera;
4.	Access to team fixed ropes and camps (sites, not tents), coordinated with our own "full-service" climbing team. Ice-fall permission is included.
5.	Other necessary services and supplies (ie: extra yaks, trek services, basecamp meals, high altitude services and equipment), may be purchased and hired at minimal expense. We offer basic climb "packages" as noted below, or, we can furnish individual items such as tents, stoves, gas, food, etcetera.

1.	Arrive Kathmandu (1,300 meters). Hotel.
2.	Orientation day in Kathmandu. Hotel.
3.	Fly to Lukla (2860m). Walk to Phakding (2652m). Teahouse or camping.
4.	Walk to Namche Bazaar (3446m). Teahouse or camping.
5.	Rest and acclimatization in Namche. Teahouse or camping.
6.	Walk to Pangboche (3757m). Teahouse or camping.
7.	Walk to Pheriche (4250m). Visit the Himalayan Rescue Association health clinic. Teahouse or camping.
8.	Walk to Dugla (4620m). Teahouse or camping.
9.	Walk to Lobuche (4930m). Teahouse or camping.
10.	Walk to basecamp (5300m).
11.	Rest, organization, and training day in basecamp.
12.	Climb partway to camp 1 at 5800 metres. Return to basecamp.
13.	Rest in basecamp.
14.	Climb to camp 1 at 5800 metres. Return to basecamp.
15.	Rest in basecamp.
16.	Climb to Camp 1, sleep there.
17.	Walk to camp 2 at 6200 metres, return to camp 1, sleep there.
18.	Return to basecamp.
19.	Rest in basecamp.
20.	Rest in basecamp.
21.	Walk to camp 1, sleep there.
22.	Walk to Camp 2. Sleep there.
23.	Rest in camp 2.
24.	Explore route to Camp 3 (7300m), return to camp 2, sleep there.
25.	Return to basecamp.
26.	Rest in basecamp.
27.	Rest in basecamp.
28.	Rest in basecamp.
29.	Walk to camp 1, sleep there.
30.	Walk to Camp 2. Sleep there.
31.	Rest in camp 2.
32.	Walk to Camp 3. Sleep there.
33.	Explore route to camp 4 at 8000 metres, return to camp 2. Sleep there.
34.	Return to basecamp.
35.	Rest in basecamp.
36.	Rest in basecamp.
37.	Rest in basecamp.
38.	Walk to camp 2, sleep there.
39.	Rest in camp 2.
40.	Walk to camp 3, sleep there.
41.	Walk to camp 4, sleep there.
42.	Attempt summit. Return to camp 4.
43.	Return to camp 2, sleep there.
44.	Return to basecamp.
45.	Rest in basecamp.
46.	Rest in basecamp.
47.	Rest in basecamp.
48.	Walk to camp 2, sleep there.
49.	Walk to camp 3, sleep there.
50.	Walk to camp 4, sleep there.
51.	Attempt summit.
52.	Attempt summit.
53.	Attempt summit.
54.	Attempt summit.
55.	Attempt summit.
56.	Attempt summit.
57.	Attempt summit.
58.	Return to camp 2.
59.	Pack up camp 2.
60.	Return to basecamp.
61.	Pack up basecamp.
62.	Pack up basecamp.
63.	Trek down to Pheriche. Camp.
64.	Trek down to Pangboche. Teahouse or camping.
65.	Trek to Namche, Teahouse or camping.
66.	Trek to Lukla. Teahouse or camping.
67.	Flight to Kathmandu. Hotel.
68.	Extra day in Kathmandu, in case of delay, and for sightseeing, gift shopping. Hotel.