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MOUNT EVEREST FROM TIBET

The Most Coveted Peak

26 March to 1 June, 68 days in 2004, 2005, and 2006. 

Permit, Liason Officer, Transport and Accomodation to Basecamp: $6550,   £4250,   €6550.

everest from lamna la.JPG (41883 bytes)

The Tibetan side of Everest from the Lamna-La  Pass. (Photo: DL Mazur)

Note: This trip may seem inexpensive. The reason is: no one from our organization goes on the expedition. It is unaccompanied. It is a "Do-It-Yourself" climb. Additionally, the prices quoted do not include basecamp nor advanced basecamp services and supplies, nor oxygen, nor sherpas. They can be hired and purchased at a nominal additional cost.

Interested? Please contact us: SummitClimb@earthlink.net

* Our “low budget” trips include: round-trip return transport from Kathmandu, hotels and guesthouses and meals in route, permit, and liason officer. More services and equipment can be provided, with adjustments (up and down) in cost. For example, we can provide basecamp cooks, meals, tents, tables, chairs, climbing sherpas, high-altitude tents, food, and cookers, oxygen, western guides, and any other items you might require. Or, for the truly frugal and independent people, we can provide only the permit, liason officer, and transport to/from basecamp.

We are able to reduce the costs by climbing and trekking simply, using basic and comfortable services.  Because we have been climbing and trekking Himalayan peaks since 1986, and have brought many groups and individuals over the years, you will benefit from a special relationship we have with the Chinese Mountaineering Association (CMA), the Tibetan Mountaineering Association (TMA, CTMA), the Xinjiang Mountaineering Association (XMA, CXMA), the Kashgar Mountaineering Association (KMA, CKMA), and the Nepal Ministry of Tourism, Mountaineering Section. 

Introduction: Climb Everest (8,848 Metres)  

Everest is perhaps the most coveted mountain in the world. The north (Tibetan) side is the least expensive way to climb it, and the dates we have chosen feature the best weather of the year. Our proposed schedule allows for two summit attempts and two full descents to the Chinese basecamp at 5200 metres.  

This expedition to Everest maximizes many years of accumulated wisdom of the high Himalaya, a strong record of reaching 8,000 metre summits in all safety, along with an intimate knowledge of the Tibetan and Chinese officials who regulate the permit system. 

Please take a moment to scroll through this page to read the detailed description, and view the itinerary, as well as other information. 

Detailed Description

The trip begins in the ancient and colorful city of Kathmandu (you could also start in Beijing). You stay in a comfortable, simple, clean hotel, and sample some of the tasty Nepalese, Tibetan and Western-Style cuisine.  During your free day in Kathmandu, you shall finalize arrangements, and take some time out for trinket hunting, with planned visits to explore the 17th century splendors of the Monkey Temple, the Durbar Square and old Kings Palace, as well as the ancient city of Patan.

Early in the morning you set out in a bus for the last Nepal town of Kodari at 1,770 meters.  If you are concerned about the altitude and have purchased Diamox (acetylzolamide), which is inexpensively available with no doctor's prescription in Kathmandu, this might be the time to begin taking it.  You clear Nepalese customs and immigration, then hire local porters and vehicles to carry your bags across the Bota Kosi River on the Friendship Bridge, to Zhangmu, the gateway town in Tibet.   Upon entering Tibet, the clocks immediately go forward by 2 ¼ hours.  Your liason officer will meet you in Zhangmu. After clearing Tibetan customs and immigration, a Chinese bus takes you up the windy road through the rolling hills to Nyalam town at 3,750 meters, and a basic "hotel".  The smaller towns in Tibet are generally simple and rustic places, and this one is no exception.  The topography here is quite interesting in that you are perched in the transitional zone where the Tibetan plateau rams into the Himalaya, then drops into the forested valleys and jungles of Nepal, and finally out into the Gangetic plain of the Terai and India. You stay over one extra night in Nyalam, to help adjust to the altitude.

On the road to Tingri. (DL Mazur)

In the morning you continue your bus-ascent into the Tibetan plateau, to the town of Tingri at 4,342 meters.  There are superb views of Shishapangma, Cho-Oyu, and Everest as you drive into Tingri.  The town itself is a very basic one-street hamlet surrounded by the tents of nomadic Tibetans.   About ½ of all ethnic Tibetans living in Tibet are nomadic or semi-nomadic.   Your extremely rustic little hotel has an adequate restaurant, and it will be interesting to see if the high altitude has quelled your appetite for tasty fresh food.   There are the ruins of an old fortress on a rise above town, and from here you can see the finest views of Everest, Lhotse, Cho-Oyu, and Shishipangma.

The following morning, after what for many is a relatively sleep-free night, you drive the 70 kilometers to Everest base camp at around 5,200 meters.  The drive follows a dirt road along the Rongbuk Valley and has spectacular views of the Himalaya.  Chinese base camp is located just near the Rongbuk Monastery.

You then spend two days moving up to the "advanced basecamp", which is actually the true basecamp for our climb.  At 6,200 meters, this is must be the highest  basecamp in the world.  From here, you will complete your climb of Everest.

Through the following weeks, you will climb up and down the mountain, exploring the route, establishing camps, and building your acclimatization level. You will also descend to the Chinese basecamp several times, in order to rest well. Following the proposed itinerary below should give you the best chance to ascend in safety and maximize your opportunity to reach the summit during the "weather windows" which open in May. It is possible to leave basecamp early if you need to be home before 1 June.


PROPOSED DAY-BY-DAY ITINERARY FOR EVEREST CLIMB

1. Arrive Kathmandu (1,300 meters).
2. In Kathmandu - logistics, purchasing, packing, training, visit temples, city tour, shopping.  Hotel.
3. In Kathmandu - logistics, purchasing, packing, training, visit temples, city tour, shopping.  Hotel.
4. In Kathmandu - logistics, purchasing, packing, training, visit temples, city tour, shopping.  Hotel.
5. Bus to Kodari (1,770 meters); enter Tibet at Zhangmu; drive Nyalam (3,750 meters).  Hotel.
6. Rest in Nyalam (3,750 meters).  Hotel.
7. Bus to Tingri (4,342 meters).  Hotel.
8. Drive to Everest  base (Chinese Basecamp) (5200meters).  Camp.
9. Rest in Chinese base. Organize equipment and supplies. Camp
10. Walk with the yaks halfway to advanced base (5,800meters). Camp.
11. Walk with the yaks to advanced base at 6200 metres. Camp
12. Rest in Advanced base. Organize supplies
13. Hike to Camp 1 (6600m). Return to ABC.
14. Hike to camp 1. Sleep there.
15. Rest in camp 1.
16. Explore route to camp 2 (7000m), return to ABC.
17. Rest in ABC.
18. Hike to camp 1. Sleep there.
19. Hike to Camp 2, sleep there.
20. Rest in Camp 2.
21. Explore route to camp 3 (7400m). Return to ABC.
22. Rest in ABC.
23. Rest in ABC.
24. Hike to Camp 1; sleep.
25. Climb to Camp 2;  sleep.
26. Hike to Camp 3; sleep.
27. Rest in camp 3.
28. Explore route to camp 4 (7800m). Return to ABC
29. Return to Chinese base.
30. Rest in Chinese base.
31. Rest in Chinese base.
32. Hike to ABC; sleep.
33. Climb to Camp 1; sleep.
34. Climb to Camp 2; sleep.
35. Climb to Camp 3; sleep.
36. Climb to Camp 4; sleep.
37. Rest in Camp 4. sleep
38. Explore route to camp 5 (8200m).  Camp there if feeling ok.
39. Summit attempt if feeling ok, or return to ABC.
40. Return to ABC
41. Return to Chinese base.
42. Rest in Chinese base.
43. Rest in Chinese base.
44. Rest in Chinese base.
45. Hike to ABC, sleep.
46. Climb to camp 2, sleep.
47. Climb to camp 4, sleep.
48. Climb to camp 5, sleep.
49. Summit attempt.
50. Summit attempt.
51. Summit attempt.
52. Return to camp 5.
53. Return to camp 3.
54-59. Extra days for summit attempts, weather, etcetera.
60. Return to ABC. 
61. Return to ABC.
62. Packing in ABC.
63. Yaks transport equipment, supplies and rubbish to Chinese base.
64. Packing in Chinese base.
65. Drive to Tingri.   Hotel.
66. Drive to Kathmandu.   Hotel.
67. In Kathmandu.  This "extra" day is necessary in case of any delay in returning from Tibet. Hotel.
68. Fly home.

Team Member Experience

This is not a guided expedition, and team members are expected to be able to care for themselves in a winter-camping and climbing environment.  Members must provide documentation that they have been to 6800 metres prior to the expedition (within 3 years). Obviously, Everest is the highest mountain in the world, and there are significant hazards present. Members must have knowledge of roped climbing techniques to protect for crevasse-falls, as well as use of fixed lines.  Above ABC, all members must be prepared to join a rope with another team member.  Solo climbing is not allowed. If you do not have a climbing partner, you must hire a local climber or sherpa.  Everest team members must be prepared to climb fixed ropes on steep rock, ice, and snow terrain.  They must be ready to brave strong winds, cold temperatures, avalanche hazards and deep snow. They must have a knowledge of altitude sickness and frostbite; recognition of symptoms, its prevention and treatment.  Additionally, and perhaps most importantly, they need to join with a spirit of teamwork and cooperation, and be ready to work with the group and be a good "team-player".


Equipment and Supplies: No equipment will be provided. You need to bring or hire all of your equipment and supplies.

Fitness and Health

Members must provide documentation that they have been to 6800 metres prior to the expedition (within 3 years). Also, you must be a very fit and active winter-climber and camper in good health.  Prior to joining the expedition,  please see your doctor and obtain the necessary permission and advice, as well as medications for travel in extremes of altitude, and also for exotic locales. Remember that these medications may be purchased inexpensively in Kathmandu, without the prescription of a doctor. It is also very important that you have trained yourself properly prior to the climb.


Oxygen: You may wish to hire your own oxygen set, and we can easily arrange at the least cost.

Climbing Sherpas: We are able to arrange for your own personal climbing sherpas at a minimal cost.

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Last modified: 14 March, 2003

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