Climb Lakpa Ri or Everest North Col. Lakpa Ri is probably the easiest 7000 metre peak in the world. Just near Everest, in Tibet. Working with the Chinese Mountaineering Association (CMA), the Tibetan Mountaineering Association (TMA, CTMA), the Xinjiang Mountaineering Association (XMA, CXMA), the Kashgar Mountai

We welcome you to visit our new Lhakpa Ri / North Col website. There is more thorough information about the trip, slideshows, photo galleries, video clips and much more. Thank you.

The Tibetan side of Everest. The North Col and Lhakpa-Ri are found on the left side of the photo. (Photo: DL Mazur)

1 March to 28 March, 29 March to 25 April, and 30 April to 27 May, 28 days in Tibet and Nepal in 2009, and 2010.

Climbing the North Col or Lhakpa Ri could qualify you for Cho Oyu, Lhotse, or Everest. Please see our Cho Oyu, Lhotse, or Everest link for more information. Thank you.

Full Service Cost: $5950, Ł3050, €3750; Basic Climb Cost: $4450, Ł2250, €2850.

When you see the high level of service we provide, as well as low budget options, you may agree that the cost is affordable, inexpensive, even cheap.

Leader: Daniel Mazur, climber-leader-organizer of Everest, K2, and 12 "eight-thousand-metre-peaks".

Leadership: During this full-service expedition, you will benefit from the leadership provided by Dan Mazur, climber-leader-organizer of Everest, K2, and 12 "eight-thousand-metre-peaks". He is a relaxed, friendly and well organized person, and a highly-skilled professional with 25 years experience in getting people to the summit and back down with the highest attention to safety. For more about Dan, please "click" on the Leadership link above.

Organization: Your expedition is organized by Jon Christian Otto, fluent Chinese speaker, Tibet and China expert with ten years experience in Chinese Himalayan climbing. Jon is an excellent communicator, an international diplomat, extremely well organized, with superb attention to each and every detail. For more about Jon, please "click" on the Leadership link above.

Sherpas and Equipment Transport: Our expedition includes transport of all of your equipment from Kathmandu to advanced basecamp, and returned to Kathmandu. While climbing on the mountain, we DO NOT ask our full-service members to carry heavy group equipment (although it is an option if you really want to), such as tents, rope, fuel, food, etcetera. We employ climbing sherpas, and high-altitude porters, to carry group equipment and supplies. For a minimal expense, we can also provide personal sherpas, and climbing-guides, to individual members who wish to have their own private sherpa or personal climbing-guide.

Training: Upon arrival in advanced basecamp, ALL full-service and basic-climb members are required to participate in one to two days of training in the areas of climbing techniques, glacier travel, rope fixing, ascending, descending, safety techniques, rappels (abseils), belaying, medical equipment and procedures, communications equipment, camping techniques and high-altitude cooking. For the expert and beginner alike, it is important to review these techniques in order to enhance skills, ensure safety-awareness, and work together as a team.

Safety: BOTH full-service and basic expeditions are allowed access to our extensive medical supplies, first-aid kits, medical oxygen, and a gamow bag in case of emergency. Thank you for being a well-prepared and safe team member!

Communications: During our expedition, we regularly update several websites, such as EverestNews.com with the progress of our expedition and our team members. In this way, your loved ones and friends, colleagues, and sponsors can stay tuned to how you are progressing on your way up to and back down from the summit. Our expedition is equipped with one "walkie-talkie" radio for each member, and a satellite telephone for international voice telephone calls and emails. Members wishing to use the telephone will contribute $4 per minute of use.

Group Equipment: We provide a plethora of well-used, top-quality, and time-tested equipment, group gear, and supplies, including: rope, ice, rock, and snow anchor protection; basecamp, advanced basecamp and altitude tents; cookers, fuel, high-altitude food, walkie-talkie radios, bamboo marker wands, etcetera. Please see the above EQUIPMENT link, to study what we bring for your use and safety.

Cooks and Food: On the road we eat in the local restaurants as available. In basecamp and advanced basecamp our skillful and hard working cooks prepare three hot meals each day with a very healthy diet of fresh vegetables, cheeses, eggs, and fresh as well as tinned fruits, meats and fish (all meats and fish are prepared separately out of respect for the vegetarians in our midst). They supply you with unlimited hot-drinks, the key to successful acclimatization. We have large weather-proof kitchens and dining tents, with comfortable chairs and tables. On the mountain, above advanced basecamp, we provide you with abundant and nutritious locally available quick-cooking food, so that you may prepare at least three meals and lots of hot drinks each day, in our specially designed high-altitude stoves using our butane-propane expedition mix fuel.

Personal Equipment: Plastic double climbing boots are required, as are good quality leather walking boots. You will need to bring your own personal equipment, including rucksack, iceaxe, crampons, harness, helmet, plastic mountaineering boots, good quality leather boots, down/duvet jacket, wind/waterproof clothing, sleeping bag/mat, etcetera. You will need to bring your own daily snacks ( a wide selection of snacks are readily available in Kathmandu). In addition, we ask you to bring 2 of your favorite high-altitude freeze-dried dinners for yourself. Please see the above EQUIPMENT link, to study what is needed.

Team Member Experience: Our leader, Daniel Mazur, and our team-climbing-sherpas, are there to ensure (for our full-service members) you make it up to the summit and down safely. However, this is not a guided expedition (although you could hire your own personal guide, sherpas, etcetera), and team members are expected to be able to care for themselves in a winter-camping environment. Although Lhakpa Ri is probably one of the easiest 7000 metre peaks on the planet, there are hazards present, and members must have knowledge of roped rock and ice climbing techniques (to protect from falling down the mountain or into crevasses), and have winter-camping-walking experience. It is also required that all members will have an awareness of altitude sickness, frostbite, and the recognition of their symptoms, prevention, and treatment. Once traveling above advanced basecamp, all members must be prepared to be roped to another team member at all times. Neither solo climbing, nor descending, are allowed above advanced basecamp. Additionally, and perhaps most importantly, members need to join with a spirit of friendship, teamwork and cooperation, and be ready to work with the group and be a good "team-player".

Fitness and Health: To participate in this expedition you must be a very fit and active winter-walker in good health. Prior to joining our group, please see your doctor and obtain the necessary permission and advice, as well as medications for travel in extremes of altitude, and also for exotic locales. Note: You can purchase all necessary medicines inexpensively with no doctor's prescription in Kathmandu. Make sure you have physically trained yourself very thoroughly before joining this climb of what may be the easiest 7000 metre peak in the world. We look forward to climbing together with you!

Introduction: Climb up to the North Col on Everest at 7000 metres.

The North Col on Everest is 7000 metres high and a spectacular location with incredible views and is located directly on the main climbing route for climbing Everest from Tibet. Climbing up to the Everest's North Col could qualify you for climbing Everest. Please see our "Everest" link for further information. Thank You. The North Col is located on a high snow ridge above advanced basecamp. The slopes are 20 to 48 degrees. The North Col on Everest is gained by ascending a steep snow and ice face with an ascending device (jumar) and ice axe and crampons. The climbing could be best described as steep walking/climbing, with climbers attached to fixed ropes at all times, and the dates we have chosen feature some of the most stable weather, with avalanche conditions at their most safest of the year. Our proposed schedule allows for plenty of acclimatization, training, practice and rest, as well as two possible summit attempts. Our style of climbing is cautious and careful, with excellent leadership, organization, Sherpa climbers, cooks and waiters, tasty food, the best equipment, two full kitchens in basecamp plus advanced basecamp, 1000s of metres of fixed line, hundreds of rock ice and snow anchors, top-quality high altitude tents and high altitude stoves, expedition mix gas, and full safety equipment: medical oxygen, gamow bag, and extensive medical kit.

This expedition to Lhakpa Ri and the North Col maximizes many years of accumulated wisdom of the high Himalaya, a strong record of reaching the top of 8,000ers: Everest, K2, Kangchenjunga, Lhotse, Makalu, Cho-Oyu, Shishapangma, and many other 8,000 metre summits, in addition to more than 25 Himalayan expeditions, in all safety, along with an intimate knowledge of the Tibetan and Chinese officials who regulate the permit system. We have conducted more than eleven 7000 metre peak expeditions, and consider ourselves specialists in identifying, organizing expeditions to, and getting teams safely to the summit and back down, of the world's 7000ers. This is our 12th expedition to Tibet since 1986, and we know all of the bureaucratic officials, liaison officers, yak drivers, and hoteliers/restaurateurs personally.

Detailed Description

The trip begins in the ancient and colorful city of Kathmandu (you could also start in Beijing). You stay in a comfortable, simple, clean, hot-water hotel, at minimal cost (single rooms at: $15, Ł8,€12) (double rooms at $20, Ł11,€16) and sample some of the very reasonably-priced tasty Nepalese, Tibetan and Western-Style cuisine, available at the hundreds of local restaurants. During your free days in Kathmandu, while your Chinese visa is being processed, you shall finalize arrangements, purchase and hire the bits of equipment you might be missing at the hundreds of mountain-climbing and trekking equipment shops in the neighborhood (with low prices, as well), and take time out for trinket hunting, with suggested visits to explore the 17^th century splendors of the Monkey Temple, the Durbar Square and old Kings Palace, as well as the ancient cities of Patan, and Bakhtapur. If you are concerned about the altitude and have purchased Diamox (acetylzolamide), which is inexpensively available with no doctor's prescription in Kathmandu, this might be the time to begin taking it.

After the finalization of your Chinese visa, very early in the morning we set out in a bus for the 4 hour drive to the last Nepal town of Kodari at 1,770 meters. We clear Nepalese customs and immigration, then hire local porters and vehicles to carry your bags across the Bota Kosi River on the Friendship Bridge, to Zhangmu, the gateway town in Tibet. Upon entering Tibet, the clocks immediately go forward by 2 Ľ hours. Our secondary government liason officer will meet us in Zhangmu. After clearing Tibetan customs and immigration, a Chinese bus takes us up the windy road through the rolling hills to Nyalam town at 3,750 meters, and a basic "hotel". The smaller towns in Tibet are generally simple and rustic places, and this one is no exception. The topography here is quite interesting in that we are perched in the transitional zone where the Tibetan plateau rams into the Himalaya, then drops into the forested valleys and jungles of Nepal, and finally out into the Gangetic plain of the Terai and India. We stay over one extra night in Nyalam, to help adjust to the altitude, and during our "rest-day" in Nyalam, we take advantage of the interesting surroundings to walk to the top of local hills and savor the first glimpses of the Himalayan Giants.

On the road to Tingri, Himalayan Giants in the background. (DL Mazur)

In the morning we continue our bus-ascent into the Tibetan plateau, to the town of Tingri at 4,342 meters. There are superb views of Shishapangma, Cho-Oyu, and Everest as we drive into Tingri. The town itself is a very basic one-street hamlet surrounded by the tents of nomadic Tibetans. About ˝ of all ethnic Tibetans living in Tibet are nomadic or semi-nomadic. Our extremely rustic little hotel has an adequate restaurant, and it will be interesting to see if the high altitude has quelled our appetites for tasty fresh food. There are the ruins of an old fortress on a rise above town, and from here we can see the finest views of Everest, Lhotse, Cho-Oyu, and Shishipangma.

The following morning, after what for many is a relatively sleep-free night, we drive the 70 kilometers to Everest base camp at around 5,200 meters. The drive follows a dirt road along the Rongbuk Valley and has spectacular views of the Himalaya. Chinese base camp is located just near the medieval and active Rongbuk Monastery.

We will spend another day resting, acclimatising, and organizing equipment into Yak loads at Chinese base.

Everest Basecamp.JPG (88543 bytes)

Everest basecamp at 5,200 meters. (Photo: J. Otto)

We then spend two days moving up to the "advanced basecamp", which is actually the true basecamp for our climb. At 6,400 meters, this must be the highest basecamp in the world. It is located on soft sand, not ice, and is suprisingly comfortable, for how high up in the Himalayas you are.

We will take another rest and acclimatization day, this time going over our equipment, safety procedures, climbing techniques, cooking and camping methods, and working to form ourselves into a more cohesive team.

After resting and completing our training, we will begin our climb of Lhakpa Ri or the North Col.

Through the following days, we will cautiously climb the mountain, fixing rope where necessary, according to the schedule suggested below. After ascending to the 7045 metre summit of Lhakpa Ri, or climbing up to the 7000 metre North Col on Everest, we will descend and make our way back down to advanced basecamp, return to Chinese base, and then retrace our steps to Kathmandu for the flight home. Thanks for joining!

1.	Arrive in Kathmandu. Our staff will meet you at the airport. Go to hotel.
2.	In Kathmandu - Bring Passport to Chinese Embassy, for Visa. Logistics, training, purchasing, packing, training, visit temples, city tour, shopping. Hotel and meals at members minimal cost.
3.	In Kathmandu - Pick up passport from Chinese Embassy. Logistics, training, purchasing, packing, training, visit temples, city tour, shopping. Hotel. We may choose to depart Kathmandu for Tibet on this day;
4.	Bus to Tibet; drive to Nyalam (3,750 meters). Hotel and meals at organizer's expense.
5.	Rest in Nyalam (3,750 meters). Walk around the local hills. Hotel.
6.	Bus to Tingri (4,342 meters). Hotel.
7.	Rest in Tingri. Explore surrounding hills. Hotel.
8.	Drive to Chinese Basecamp (5200meters). Camp.
9.	Rest in Chinese base. Organize equipment and supplies. Camp
10.	Walk gently in the hills surrounding Chinese base.
11.	Rest in Chinese base. Organize equipment and supplies. Camp.
12.	Walk gently in the hills surrounding Chinese base.
13.	Rest in Chinese base. Organize equipment and supplies. Camp.
14.	Walk with the yaks halfway to advanced base to interim camp (5,800meters). Camp.
15.	Rest in interim camp.
16.	Rest in interim camp.
17.	Walk with the yaks to advanced base (ABC) at 6400 metres. Camp.
18.	Rest in ABC. Camp.
19.	Practice climbing techniques near to ABC. Camp
20.	Rest in ABC. Camp.
21.	Walk to the base of Lhakpa Ri or partway up the North Col and down, camp.
22.	Walk to the halfway camp on Lhakpa Ri or camp 1 on North Col. Camp
23.	Walk to the summit of Lhakpa Ri, return to Lhakpa Ri basecamp, or walk above the North Col, weather permitting.
24.	Extra day for climbing and exploring at high altitude. Return to ABC. Camp.
25.	Yaks transport equipment to Chinese base. Members walk down.
26.	Early morning drive to Kathmandu.
27.	In Kathmandu. Final packing, celebration, saying goodbye to new friends.
28.	Fly home. Thank you for joining our Lhakpa Ri and North Col Expedition!

1.	Leader: Dan Mazur, climber-leader-organizer of Everest, K2, and 12 "eight-thousand-metre-peaks";
2.	Organizer: Jon Christian Otto, fluent Chinese speaker, Tibet and China Expert, with 10 years Himalayan climbing experience;
3.	Climbing Sherpas for the group;
4.	Transport to basecamp to/from Kathmandu, for you and equipment, including accommodation and meals on the road;
5.	Yak transport of all equipment from the road to and from advanced basecamp;
6.	Three hot meals per day in basecamp and advanced basecamp. Comfortable tables and chairs and dining tent;
7.	Skillful basecamp and advanced basecamp cooks;
8.	All mountain, basecamp and advanced basecamp food;
9.	All permit fees and liaison officers;
10.	Use of group gear and supplies: rope, ice, rock, and snow anchor protection; basecamp and altitude tents; cookers, fuel, high-altitude food, walkie-talkie radios, satellite telephone, etcetera;
11.	Emergency equipment and supplies: medical oxygen, gamow bag, basecamp medical kit, high-altitude medical kits, etcetera.

1.	Coordinator: Dan Mazur, climber-leader-organizer of Everest, K2, and 12 "eight-thousand-metre-peaks";
2.	Organizer: Jon Christian Otto, fluent Chinese speaker, Tibet and China Expert, with 10 years Himalayan climbing experience;
3.	All permit fees and liaison officers;
4.	Transport to basecamp to/from Kathmandu, for your personal equipment only (boots, ice axe, clothing, sleeping bag), including accommodation and meals on the road;
5.	Yak transport of your personal equipment only (boots, ice axe, clothing, sleeping bag), from the road to and from advanced basecamp;
6.	Emergency equipment and supplies: medical oxygen, gamow bag, basecamp medical kit, high-altitude medical kits, etcetera;
7.	Access to team fixed ropes and camps (sites, not tents), coordinated with our own "full-service" climbing team.
8.	Other necessary services and supplies (ie: extra yaks, trek services, basecamp meals, high altitude services and equipment), may be purchased and hired at minimal expense. We offer basic climb "packages" as noted below, or, we can furnish individual items such as tents, stoves, gas, food, etcetera.